How to Make Your First Wholesale Offer (Scripts + Templates)
This guide is part of our complete wholesaling guide.
You found a motivated seller. You have the property address. Now what? Making your first wholesale offer is the moment where most new wholesalers freeze. The fear of saying the wrong thing, offering too much, or offending the seller keeps people stuck in "research mode" for months. But here is the truth: making offers is a skill, and you get better at it by doing it. This guide gives you the exact scripts, formulas, and process to make your first offer today.
Before you pick up the phone: know your numbers
Never make an offer you have not analyzed. Before you call a seller, you need three numbers:
- After Repair Value (ARV). What the property is worth after renovation, based on comparable sales. If you do not know how to calculate this, read our guide on how to calculate ARV step by step.
- Estimated repairs. What it will cost to renovate the property to match your ARV comps. See our guide on how to estimate repair costs without a contractor.
- Your Maximum Allowable Offer (MAO). The highest price you can pay and still leave room for your buyer to profit and for you to collect an assignment fee. For the full breakdown, see our MAO calculator guide.
The standard wholesale offer formula:
MAO = ARV x 0.70 - Repair Costs - Your Assignment Fee
The 70% multiplier is a starting point. In competitive markets, wholesale deals commonly sell for 70-80% of ARV, and many experienced wholesalers and buyers work at 75% or higher. If you are struggling to get deals under contract at 70%, you may need to adjust upward to 75% to be competitive. The key is understanding your buyer's actual cost structure rather than rigidly applying one number.
Here is a real example. You find a 3-bedroom, 2-bathroom house that needs a full cosmetic renovation. Comparable renovated sales in the neighborhood show an ARV of $200,000. You estimate repairs at $35,000. You want to make a $10,000 assignment fee.
Example calculation: $200,000 ARV x 0.70 = $140,000 - $35,000 repairs - $10,000 your fee = $95,000 maximum offer to the seller.
That $95,000 is your ceiling. You should start your verbal offer below this number to leave room for negotiation. If the seller needs $130,000, this deal does not work. Knowing your walk-away number before you call prevents emotional decisions.
The verbal offer: call first, paperwork second
Do not email a contract to a seller you have never spoken with. The phone call serves two purposes: building rapport with the seller and qualifying the deal before you invest time in paperwork. A five-minute phone call can save you hours on deals that were never going to work.
Here is a phone script you can use, broken into four phases:
Phase 1: Introduction
You: "Hi, is this [seller name]? My name is [your name] and I'm a local real estate investor. I saw your property at [address] and I'm interested in making an offer. Do you have a couple of minutes to chat?"
Keep the introduction short. You are not selling anything. You are a buyer calling about their property. If they say it is not a good time, ask when you can call back and follow up.
Phase 2: Ask about the property
You: "Great. Can you tell me a little about the property? How many bedrooms and bathrooms? About how many square feet? And what kind of condition is it in — does it need any work?"
Seller responds.
You: "Got it. And is anyone living there now, or is it vacant?"
You: "How long have you owned the property?"
Let them talk. The more information they give you, the better you can evaluate the deal. Listen for clues about motivation: financial stress, inherited property, divorce, tired landlord, deferred maintenance.
Phase 3: Ask about their situation
You: "If you don't mind me asking, what's prompting you to consider selling? Is there a timeline you're working with?"
Seller responds.
You: "That makes sense. And do you have a price in mind, or are you open to hearing what the numbers look like based on the condition and comparable sales in the area?"
This is the most important question in the call. If they give you a price, you know immediately whether the deal has a chance. If their price is at or below your MAO, you have a deal to negotiate. If their price is $50,000 above your MAO, you can thank them for their time and move on. If they say "make me an offer," proceed to Phase 4.
Phase 4: Present your range
You: "Based on what you've told me about the condition and looking at what similar homes have sold for recently in the area, I'd be looking at somewhere in the range of [low number] to [MAO]. That accounts for the repairs that would be needed and current market conditions. How does that sit with you?"
Present a range, not a single number. Your low end should be 10-15% below your MAO. This gives you room to "come up" during negotiation while never exceeding your maximum. For instance, if your MAO is $95,000, present a range of $82,000 to $92,000.
Never offer your maximum first. Sellers expect to negotiate, and you need room to move. Start at 85-90% of your MAO and let them counter.
Handling common seller responses
Here is how to handle the objections you will hear on almost every call:
"That's way too low."
You: "I understand it might seem low. The number is based on comparable sales in the area and the repairs that would be needed. I'm not looking to lowball you — I'm trying to find a number that works for both of us. What number did you have in mind?"
Let them counter. If their counter is within 10-15% of your MAO, you have something to negotiate. If they want retail price, the deal does not work for wholesale, and that is okay. Thank them and move on.
"I need to think about it."
You: "Absolutely, take your time. This is a big decision. Can I follow up with you in a few days? What day works best for a quick call?"
Get a specific follow-up date. "I'll think about it" without a follow-up plan means the lead dies. Pin down a day and time, then call back exactly when you said you would.
"My realtor said it's worth more."
You: "A realtor is going to give you a number based on what your home would sell for fully listed on the MLS after being cleaned up, staged, and shown for 60 to 90 days with their commission taken out. My offer is a cash price, as-is, with no commissions and a fast close. The convenience and certainty have a value, and that's reflected in the price."
"I have another offer."
You: "That's great — it means there's interest in the property. If you don't mind me asking, is the other offer a cash offer with a quick close? I'd love the chance to present my best number if you're comparing options."
Do not panic. Many sellers say this to create urgency. Some are telling the truth. Either way, present your best number (up to your MAO) and let the seller decide.
The written offer: what goes in the contract
Once the seller verbally agrees to a price, it is time for paperwork. Your purchase contract should include these key terms:
- Purchase price. The number you agreed on verbally.
- Buyer name. Your name or LLC name followed by "and/or assigns." This language is what allows you to assign the contract to your end buyer.
- Earnest money deposit. Typically $500-$2,000 for wholesale deals. This shows good faith. You will deposit this with the title company within 1-3 business days of contract execution.
- Option fee and option period (Texas). In Texas, a small option fee ($100-$500) buys you an unrestricted right to terminate the contract during the option period (typically 7-14 days). This is your due diligence window. Use it to find your buyer and inspect the property.
- Closing date. Set this 21-30 days out. This gives you time to find a buyer and get to the closing table. You can always close earlier if both parties agree.
- Special provisions. Include language that the contract is assignable and that you are purchasing the property "as-is." Your real estate attorney can help you draft appropriate provisions. For more on contract structure, read our contracts guide.
Get an attorney. Do not download a random contract from the internet. Have a real estate attorney in your market review or draft your purchase agreement. In Texas, use the standard TREC One to Four Family Residential Contract. In other states, your attorney will know the right form. A $300-$500 attorney review is the best money you will spend on your first deal.
Negotiation tips that work
- Know your walk-away number before you call. Decide your MAO before the conversation starts. Write it on a Post-It note and stick it on your desk. When emotions start running, look at the number. If you cannot make the deal work at or below that number, walk away.
- Start lower than your max. Always. If your MAO is $95K, offer $82-85K. Let the seller negotiate you up. Arriving at $92K after negotiation feels like a win for the seller. Starting at $95K and being unable to move feels like a take-it-or-leave-it ultimatum.
- Anchor with data. When the seller pushes back on price, reference specific comparable sales. "There were three houses on your street that sold in the last six months, and they averaged $195K fully renovated. Your home needs about $35K in work, so that's how I arrived at my number." Data anchors your offer in reality instead of opinion.
- Sell the benefits of your offer. Speed, certainty, no commissions, no showings, no repairs needed, no cleaning, no staging. You are offering convenience. Quantify it: "Listing with an agent would cost you $12K in commissions, take 60-90 days, and they'd probably ask you to make $5K in repairs before listing. My offer avoids all of that."
- Be quiet after you present your number. This is the hardest skill in negotiation. State your offer and stop talking. Let the silence sit. The seller will fill the silence. Do not negotiate against yourself by immediately offering more or justifying your number unprompted.
- Never get emotional. If a seller gets angry at your offer, stay calm. "I understand. I'm not trying to offend you. I'm just running the numbers based on the market. If the timing doesn't work now, I'd love to stay in touch in case things change." Some of the best deals come from sellers who said no the first time and called back three months later.
After they accept: the next 48 hours
The seller said yes. Here is your checklist for the next two days:
- Get the contract signed. Send the purchase agreement immediately. Use DocuSign, DotLoop, or hand-deliver it. Time kills deals. The longer between verbal agreement and signature, the more likely the seller changes their mind or takes another offer.
- Deposit earnest money. Deliver your earnest money deposit to the title company within the timeframe specified in the contract (typically 1-3 business days). This shows the seller you are serious and starts the clock on your closing timeline.
- Start finding buyers immediately. The moment the contract is signed, you should be marketing the deal to your buyer list. Email, text, post in Facebook groups, call your top buyers. The faster you find a buyer, the smoother the transaction. Read our guide on how to find buyers for your wholesale deal.
- Open escrow with the title company. Send the executed contract to your investor-friendly title company. They will begin the title search and prepare for closing. If you do not have a title company yet, read our guide on finding an investor-friendly title company.
- Inspect the property. Walk the property during your option or inspection period. Take photos for your marketing material. Verify that the condition matches what the seller described. Adjust your repair estimate if needed.
The follow-up system: where most deals actually close
Here is the stat that should change how you think about offers: 80% of wholesale deals close on follow-up, not on the first call. That first conversation plants a seed. The deal closes when the seller's situation reaches a tipping point — the tax bill arrives, the tenant stops paying, the property becomes too much to handle.
Build a follow-up system with these touchpoints:
- Day 3: Quick text message. "Hi [name], this is [your name]. Just following up on our conversation about [address]. Have you had a chance to think it over? Happy to answer any questions."
- Day 7: Phone call. Reference your previous conversation. Ask if anything has changed. Re-present your offer if needed.
- Day 14: Text or email. Short and direct. "Still interested in [address] whenever you're ready to move forward."
- Day 30: Phone call. Check in. Markets move, situations change. A seller who said no three weeks ago may say yes today.
- Day 60, 90, 120: Monthly check-in via text. Keep it brief. Stay top of mind without being a pest.
The fortune is in the follow-up. The wholesalers who make the most money are not the ones with the best scripts. They are the ones who follow up consistently and are there when the seller is finally ready.
Your first offer will not be perfect
You will stumble over the script. You will forget to ask a key question. You might even offer too much on your first deal. That is fine. The goal of your first offer is not perfection. It is momentum. Every call you make, every objection you handle, and every negotiation you survive makes you better at this. The wholesalers making six figures did not start that way. They started exactly where you are, with a phone script taped to their monitor and sweaty palms.
Pick up the phone. Make the call. The numbers will guide you. For a deeper look at how the analysis side works, explore our guides on ARV calculation, repair estimation, and maximum allowable offer. And for the full step-by-step from finding deals to closing, see our complete wholesaling guide.